Watering:
1. Water after 24 hours after an application when weed infestation is heavy, and after 4 hours when weed infestation is light. Water immediately after application if lawn is weed free and temperature is over 85 degrees.
2. Water 3/4 to 1 inch at each watering.(This can be checked using a rain gauge, or setting a can on the lawn as water is being applied, and then measured with a ruler.) Do this twice a week when temperatures exceed 80 degrees, and no ample rain has fallen. Lawns require 1 to 2 inches of water a week as a minimum. Lawns in shade require less watering than in full sun. Temperatures below 80 degrees need one watering a week, as a general rule.
3. Water early in the day.(Before 2:00 pm if possible.) This will ensure evaporation at the surface before nightfall reducing the chance of disease development.
4. Watering ornamentals in late fall as the ground begins to freeze will protect roots from freeze dry.
Mowing:
1. Set mower height at 2 inches, and mow in the evenings to prevent sun scald. More or less depending on your preferences.
2. Mow when grass has grown an inch. Mid Fall, allow grass to grow beyond an inch to allow grass to store food reserves for winter. By late Fall mow grass short to prevent snow mold.
3. Keep blade sharp. (Dull blades tend to chew the grass.)
4. Wait 3 to 5 days to mow after an application when weed infestation is heavy, and 1 to 3 days when weed infestation is light. Do not bag clippings after an application.
Thatch:
1. Core Aerate your lawn at least once a year.
2. Allow clippings to remain to hold in moisture, return nutrients, and provide a mulch. Approximately 1/8 inch is desirable. Always let the clippings lie after an application.
3. Do not allow more than 1/4 inch of thatch to build.
4. Remove excess thatch with a power rake, or core aeration. In extremely deep thatch layer's power rake is the way to go. In milder cases, core aeration will reduce thatch buildup, plus relieve soil compaction.
Seeding:
1. Seeding can be accomplished anytime in the growing season between May 10, and September 15. After this time may suffer winter kill. However dormant seeding can be successful if seeds aren't allowed to germinate until Spring. Daytime temperatures of 70 degrees are preferred. Late August to early September is the best as rain intensities weaken, and weeds aren't as competitive.
2. Seeds should be raked into loose soil, and should never be allowed to dry out. Moisture is essential for germination.
3. Kentucky Bluegrass, Fine Fescues, and Perrenial Ryegrass varieties are a well adapted seed for this area. Use a shade tolerant mix in shaded areas.
4. Peat backed sods require intense maintenance in our area to prevent disease. These sods have a history of getting diseases on our heavy clay soil without proper management. Core Aeration 2 to 3 times per year until no interfacing exists, along with proper water management; use of fungicides, power raking, and overseeding may also be required for peat backed sods.
5. Wait 3 weeks to seed following an application of broad-leaf weed control. Lawns which receive pre-emergent herbicide in Spring should wait until late August to seed.
Pruning:
1. Junipers, Cedars, and Arborvitae may be cut anytime from April to August.
2. Pines are pruned only in late Spring when buds have made their elongation.
3. Spruces are pruned just before new growth in the Spring.
4. Hardwoods should be pruned in the Spring before they are in full leaf.(This prevents disease from forming on sap.)
5. Maples, Birch, Box elder, Walnut and any bleeding type trees are pruned in late Spring after full leaf.